Stolen wallet/passort... now what?

While I haven't had my passport stolen, I have had my wallet (and all my money and bank cards) stolen while travelling in a foreign country... three times. It's not that I'm careless, it's just that the pick-pocketers are more skilled than I am, apparently. But what do you do if you lose it all? It can happen in an instant. All it takes is one second, you put down your bag and look away. SWOOSH!

You look back and it's gone. The feeling of dread sets in, you freak out and you think it's hopeless. A lot of travellers think they're immune to situations like this one, but truth is, it happens at the exact moment you let your guard down. So here's what to do if it happens to you.

DON'T PANIC
Yeah, right. I know. Don' be hard on yourself because it happens to even the most seasoned travellers. Take a few breaths, and get yourself together. Having a positive attitude is the best way to solve the problem since we all know panic is the worst way to solve a problem.

GO TO THE POLICE
First thing's first. Go to the police office and report the loss or theft. Get a copy of the report, it will make replacing your passport easier or file an insurance claim for pricey travel gear or rail passes. If you're lucky your bag might actually turn up again! (This happened to me 1/3 times, I actually got my wallet back, sans money though).

GET A NEW PASSPORT
Since travelling even on the cheapest flights requires a passport, this is the next thing you need to do. It is your only piece of globally-accepted identification. Head to the closest embassy or consulate. Most have emergency numbers but others you'll need to go to during opening hours and wait your turn. Generally replacement passports are available within a few days. They can also arrange for someone at home to "wire" you some money if you haven't done that already.

CANCEL CREDIT/DEBIT CARDS
Generally you should cancel your banking cards within 48 hours. Most major credit cards can get you a replacement within a day or two in the Balkans. Some even wire money over to you to help pay your food/accommodations in the mean time.

REARRANGE TRAVEL PLANS
In some cases, losing important travel documents may mean staying put for a little longer than you planned. The most important thing is to be flexible. Cancel hotel reservations and rearrange flights as soon as possible to avoid any further penalizations. Try to keep cool, it's not the end of the world and at the end of it all, it will probably make a good story by the time you get home.

Have you ever had everything stolen while travelling? What was the first thing you did? What do you wish you had some differently in the heat of the moment?

[images from zoetnet and jackpix from Flickr, creative commons]

Balkan Cooking: Cevapi

For many of us, one of the biggest joys of travelling is without a doubt the food. Why else do so many flock to Italy? For the coliseum? You've got to be kidding me... Of course it's for the fresh pasta, deep red wines and grandma's sauce that is "to die for..."

One of the reasons I keep returning to the Balkans is also for the food. There are so many flavours and regional dishes are hearty and tasty. Although cuisine greatly differs from region to region, I'd love to introduce a series on this blog about Balkan cooking, hoping to highlight some favourite eats while travelling through the Balkans. You can always grab cheap flights to your favourite Balkan state when you get that craving for your favourite dish, but it's also nice to be able to make it at home.

What are some of your favourites? Are there recipes you'd like to see featured?

Without further ado: Cevapi

Traditionally Bosnian, these small grilled rolls of ground beef (or lamb) in pita bread are mouth-watering. They're usually served with chopped onions, cheese and ajvar (spicy red pepper paste). 

How to make them:

500g ground beef (or 350g beef, 150g minced lamb)

40ml water

30ml oil (preferrably olive oil)

Salt & pepper (to taste)

1. Combine ingredients the day before, letting it stand in the fridge overnight.
2. Wet hands and shape the mixture into uniform rolls. Place on a tray.
3. Cook the cevapi on a hot barbecue for 6 to 10 minutes, turning frequently so as not to burn.
4. Cevapi can be served on their own or on a pita.

Albania's Ionian Coast, an adventure into the wild

Wouldn't it be nice to go swimming here? Dark blue waters and rugged shorelines, Albania is just a child when it comes to outdoor tourism but it's something that is picking up which means the Ionian Coast is going to be where it's at in a few years. Wild landscapes and ancient ruins, turquoise pools and lone wolves. So beat the crowds and enjoy it while you can!

How to get there:

You can find cheap flights from Belfast to Tirana, the capital of Albania, from a number of airlines like British Airways, Lufthansa and SAS. Albania's main international airport is Rinas International Airport (TIA) which is located just 10 km north of the city.

What to see:

 Llogaraja Pass

If you're an outdoors junkie who seeks thrilling heights around the world, then need you head to Llogaraja Pass. It is a road that travels south from Vlora and reaches 1000 m in height. Albania has never looked to beautiful than from above. From the top you can see mountains disappearing into the clouds, the steep cliffs that effortlessly fall into the sea and thick forests that are home to wolves and wild boar. Albania is majestic and completely wild.

Syri i Kalter

Lose your sense at the Blue Eyed Spring, a pool of water that is surrounded by vibrant blue edges, like the iris of an eye. The pool flows into the Bistrica River and no one knows exactly how deep it is, adding to the mystery. Enjoy a picnic, take a dip and relax under the shade of an oak.

Butrinti

Butrini is both home to some of the country's most renown ancient ruins and part of a national park. It is the perfect place to spend an afternoon exploring the place once inhabited by Greeks centuries past. It was later occupied by the Byzantines and then abandoned until the late 1920s when it was discovered by archaeologist.

Have you ever been?

Undiscovered Skopje

The capital of Macedonia is one of the undiscovered gems of the Balkans. It is Macedonia's political and cultural centre and is one that have been overlooked not only as a Balkan destination but a European one at that. It lies between Belgrade and Athens, looking over Vardar River. Once occupied by neolithic people, Romans, Ottoman Turks who were finally ousted at the onset of the Balkan War in the early 1990s. This city, as you can imagine, has a lot to offer in the realm of historical monuments, a collection of lingering influences from the many people that once inhabited the city.

The city had to rebuild itself after a devastating earthquake in the 1960s, tearing down most of the city's infrastructure that was built up after the Second World War and damaging many of the city's ancient ruins. The city rebuilt and today has a trendy and modern feel to it.

What to see:

Stone Bridge: This bridge dates from the time of Sultan Mehmed II the Conqueror, around 1450s. It has become an emblem of the city.

Old Town: The city bazaar is found between the Kale Fortress and Vardar River. It was historically, as it is today, the the economic centre of the city. The city's best Ottoman architecture can be found here as well, head to the part known as Charshi (which means market place).

Kale Fortress: On the hill is a large fortress that was built by the Turks. The castle walls still stand today and was originally built in the 6th century. From here you can see the entire city.

St. Pantelejmon: A humble monastery, St. Pantelejmon was built in the 12th centuryand houses some of the more impressive examples of Byzantine artwork, not only in Macedonia but in Europe. There is a restaurant on-site that gives visitors a chance to taste authentic Macedonian cuisine, cooked up by the resident monks.

If you want to just hang out in Skopje, there are dozens of cafés and bars that line the Vardar River, always busy on summer evenings. Many have outdoor patios too. A popular place to watch the locals is called New Age, its a garden shed that was turned into a coffee house and is located beside the Catholic Church. There's a treasure trove of old wooden chairs, wobbly tables, very used chess boards and soft cushions and herbal tea.

Try saying Ljubljana three times fast!

Now that your tongue's all in a twist, let's talk about Slovenia. Yes, that little country sandwiched between Austria and Croatia. It's often left out of the Balkan loop because of its historical ties to Central Europe and the lack of Ottoman influence. But if we're going to be technical than perhaps Slovenia has no place on this blog about Balkan travels but it is still a destination country in and around the Balkan region that should not be skipped.

• Postojna Cave: a network of 20 km of passages and chambers which have attracted visitors for almost 200 years. Take the "cave train" through the labyrinth. There is lighting to you can see how geology records time through its layers and formations. Guided tours last about an hour and a half.  

• Triglav National Park: "The Kingdom of the Seven Triglav Lakes is a land that does not know how to smile, so deeply serious have the natural forces designed its face and chosen its colours." (Julius Kugy, mountaineer) This national park is best known for its network of walking, trekking and cycling routes through flat valleys and rigorous mountain terrain. 

• Šempeter: Antiquity is preserved in this town in the form of  a Roman necropolis filled with 1st century tombs. The sepulchres have been reconstructed complete with columns, peaked roofs and griffins guarding the dead.

• Ptuj: This town is one of the oldest in the country, dating back to Medieval Times. It is worth a day visit to see the museums, monasteries and castles. 

• Bled: It is crawling with tourists but there is good reason why it's so popular. The island church and the mountain peaks are indescribable.

 Slovenia may be small but there is a lot to offer. The capital, Ljubljana is located in the approximate middle and its the best place to station yourself and then take day trips outside to the different regions. Grab a cheap flight to Ljubljana from practically anywhere in Europe and you won't be disappointed with your choice. The city is quite small of a European capital making it totally accessible on foot or on bicycle. The best places to eat are around the university faculties where more than 50 000 students are studying. There is more than enough choice when it comes to cafes, bars, bistros and restaurants. The pace is laid back and definitely addictive.

Kiev is undoubtedly the city of churches

Kiev is located in beautiful Ukraine. The city scape can be a bit confusing but when you really explore the streets and take a look at a history book, it all makes sense. The city's buildings are made up of part modern skyscrapers and office buildings, part Soviet nationalist design, part Ukraine nationalist style, a bit of Russian influence and a few others and you have Kiev. There is nothing surprising about the montage of Soviet monuments and modern glass and steel buildings anymore, Kiev is embraced as one of the most beautiful cities in Ukraine because of it.

Apart for the city's architecture and its natural beauty, one can really see that Kiev is undoubtedly a city of churches. Tall and glimmering in the summer light, these cathedrals are magnificent. You can grab cheap flights to Kiev all the time from London. and Wizz Air Austrian Airlines are the two airline that fly this route the most. Kiev is a perfect spot to spend a few days, a long weekend, especially in the summer when you can take full advantage of Hydropark, taking walks along the Dnipro River or strolling the city's streets like Khreshchatyk.

The first place you should check out is without a doubt St. Sophia's Cathedral. It is the main monument of the city and is well worth a visit. It is open for visitors daily from 9:00 to 19:00. Inside you can find incredible mosaics and frescos, some of which date back to 1017 when the cathedral was first built. There is also a really nice bell tower in the front of the church. If you need a place to stay in Kiev, I recommend looking for a cheap hotel in this area. There are many walking streets around and if you're lucky you can find a room with a view of St. Sophia's many spindles.

Next head to Andreevsky Spusk (Andrew Street), the city's most famous and oldest street. Walk along it and visit the many shops and galleries. Don't be surprised if this neighbourhood reminds you of Paris' Montmartre! At the end of the street is St. Andrew's Cathedral, a perfect example of Baroque architecture.

 

If you are heading up to the top of the hill, make time to stop at Kievo-Pecherskaya Lavr, a huge monastery dated back to 13th century. It is a very sacred place and is a popular destination for Orthodox Christians that are making pilgrimages. Parts of the property were destroyed during the Second World War but the monastery remained unscathed from the bombings.

 

The city of Kiev has really been shaped by its history, picking up influences from the different eras since it was inhabited. This montage of influence makes Kiev a perfect city to visit for those travellers who love architecture, love culture and love history. There are countless opportunities to find preserved cathedrals and their frescos that managed to not be destroyed during the war, something more rare in Western cities that were heavily bombed at that time.