Monday, May 17, 2010

The Adriatic Coast of Montenegro

Mountains dropping into the sea, wispy waves crashing into the rock; Montenegro's coast is dynamic and far less tread than it's neighbour's in Croatia. Along the coast you won't find resort towns or 4-star all-inclusive hotels. What you will find however are castles, churches, medieval walls, mansions and spectacular gardens. The Bay of Kotor is one of the most beautiful bays in the Mediterranean but is still yet undiscovered by the hoards of tourists which make it still one of the great treasures of the Balkans.


The town of Kotor is located in the inner most part of the bay, protected from wind and storms. It is surrounded by walls which have stood for centuries now. Within the city walls you'll find tiny streets leaving to picturesque squares and plazas, a labyrinth of homes and shops. The only landmark one can see from the whole city is St. Tryphon's Cathedral. Recognized by its two square towers built in a mix of Byzantine, Roman, Venetian styles.

A must-do in this area is a climb to the top of the city's walls at the Fortress of St.  Ivan. From here you'll be able to see most of the bay, the city below you, and the dome of the church in the next village in Perest.


From Kotor there are a number of great day trips you can take, Perest for example, is known for its "floating churches." Out in the bay you can find two churches sitting atop small islands and appear in certain light to be floating on the water. 

Herceg Novi is the one place in the area where you'll actuallly find a resort, the trickling over from Croatia's border. The old town that sweeps up the hillside is very aattractive and quaint, a nice spot to enjoy the sunshine.

If you're looking for a place to bathe and soak in the sea, Budva is a better place to head. It is no more than a half hour drive from Kotor and you'll find a city that still keeps it's medieval charm despite having been almost completely demolished in an earthquake in the last 1970s. Just south of Budva is Sveti Stefan, an old and popular fishing village on an island which has been invaded by hotels and is often crowded by tourists, especially in the summertime.

Details:
You can reach Kotor by plane. Trivat Airport is only 5 km away and there are regularly scheduled flights from Belgrade and Zurich arriving daily. A little further away is Podgorica Airport (65 km) which is serviced by many airline flights from all over Europe.

Tuesday, May 4, 2010

Two weeks in Greece: city and sand

Greece is heating up, its all over the news, debt-ridden but nonetheless an attractive destination this summer. Can you think of anything more heavenly than spending a week or two on a Greek island, soaking in the sun, enjoying a glass of retsina wine while reading up on ancient history or a classic like the Odyssey or one of Euripides' plays.


Depending on what kind of traveller you are, you might enjoy a tranquil stay in Greece rather than one filled with crowded attractions and boisterous taverns. If you're a tranquil traveller, you should head for Folegandros; it is located about 100 miles from Athens and is one of the most southern Cyclades islands. Historically it is where most of the criminals and socially-inept were sent, but today it's all about tourism. You can reach it by ferry and you can be sure it'll be quiet, most tourists overlook it for the more popular islands.  You could easily spend one week there, but the other islands in the area are also worth a visit. Wineries spot Santorini's inland and coastline. Sifno and Paros are also good choices.


As for week two of your vacation, fill it with a tour of ancient ruins. After all Greece is king when it comes to ancient history and the leftovers from it. If you're going to visit Athens think about travelling there in the Spring or Autumn when tourist numbers are down and so is the heat. It can be scorching in the city by noon, making it unpleasant to go out for the main part of the day. You can buy a 12 Euro ticket which gives you entrance to all of them, including the infamous Acropolis. The ticket is valid for one week. Visit the Theatre of Dionysus and Kerameikos. Take Bus #400, it costs 5 Euros for the day but will take you to all of the major landmarks. You can also rent a car and get out of the city, Delphi and Meteora are perfect.


If you are worried about the recent worker's strike, you shouldn't panic. Tourism is one of the country's major industries and they need all of the tourists they can get right now. Plan your ferries and flights for weekends,  as many of the travel strikes tend to take place during the week, May 5th for example. It's also best to plan your Athen's portion of the trip for the second half; if there are any transit problems you'll at least not miss your flight home.

Have any ideas of your own for travel to Greece? Add them to our itinerary by leaving a comment below!