Travel in the Balkans

Agia Napa: Luxury in the Balkans

2011-06-14T04:58:00.000-07:00

Agia Napa is the most happening place in Cyprus. When summer rolls around this is the place to be. Once a sleepy fishing village, it's hard to imagine Agia Napa as anything but party-central and resort capital. Since the 1970s, this place has exploded as a popular tourist destination and the locals, with a booming economy, aren't complaining (for the most part).

For the cultured traveller, this place is like a bad beach holiday gone wrong with a good dose of kitsch in there too. Bars that look like giant sand castles, nightclubs with sleazy names and no dress code. There are few places in the world where you can walk around and even eat at a restaurant with no top on and this is one of them.

High season (July and August) come at a high price. It's often hard to find accommodation unless you book months in advance. But for travellers who appreciate a little luxury but without crowds of booze-heads and party animals from the UK and Germany, then Agia Napa in the off-season is where it's at. Just think, by the end of August the summer rush is over, the sun and sea are still hot and you can enjoy 4 star hotels at a fraction of the price. What else do you need to convince you to grab those cheap flights to Cyprus now?

Spend you September lounging on Nissi Beach, the most popular beach for its long shore and shallow waters. Just 2km from the city centre, it's a short cycle or scooter ride away. Take advantage of the end of the season sales and live it up large on Agia Napa this autumn.

What's the most luxurious destination you've ever been?

Making the most of Istanbul

2011-05-24T05:35:00.000-07:00

A stopover in Turkey. It's an experience of a lifetime. Istanbul is a jewel that deserves more than just a quick once-over. Invest a few days here to really discover what this city is offering. The city never fails to impress, when you spot cheap flights to Istanbul, grab them! Here are five experiences that are essential to any trip to Istanbul.

Marvel at the Aya Sofya

Istanbul is a city known for its architecture but few are better than this one. It's innovative form, historical importance and most of all, the sheer beauty of it is worth marvelling at. While not much from the outside, wait until you get inside. It's stunning.

Lose your way in the bazaars

It's a mish mash of colours, chaos and totally mayhem. Ladies, if you want to shop the way a local lady does, then don't waste your time at Kanyon. Instead, weave in and out of the caravan-like stands in the shopping streets of the Spice Bazaar. Along the shore, vendors sell it all from tasty sesame snacks to the most convincing fake Rolex's.

Independence Ave for wining and dining

The Turkish know this street as İstiklal Caddes, it's a hopping promenade and is the heart of modern Istanbul. At one end of it is Taksim Square, at the other is Galata. It's all laid back here. Take your time and skip between museums, cafes, wine bars, hotels, shops and bath houses. The vibe here is certainly more West than East.

Steam it up in a hammam

It's not every day when you have the opportunity to bath half naked in a steamy room that dates to the 16th century. It's like taking a lesson in history, culture, architecture and getting squeaky clean all at the same time. There are bath houses all over the older part of Istanbul.

Get a taste for the city

Food. Let's just say that the Turkish love to eat and they love to cook. Alongside that, what they cook is nothing short of amazing. Restaurants here are loud, they're lively and you can really tell that Turk enjoy themselves when out for dinner. Start with a plate of meze and dig into a kebap.

Where are the cheapest resorts in the Balkans?

2011-05-04T03:17:00.000-07:00

Backpacking is cool but it's not for everyone. Somehow when people think about travelling through the Balkans images of hippy hikers comes to mind, hitch-hiking around and living on a dime. People, budget holidays don't always have to mean lacking in lustre and luxury. Backpacking has its pros and its total cons and we also like to book an all-inclusive jaunt every once in a while.

Where to go for cheap?

The UK Post Office surveyed almost 40 countries around the world to calculate the cost of holidays. While European hotspots like Portugal and Spain took the top spots, followed by the Czech Republic, the fourth spot belongs to a Balkan country, Bulgaria. The study took into consideration the price of eight regular tourist items including suncream, dinner for two, a cup of coffee, etc.

When choosing a holiday destination on a budget, you should know how much it's going to cost to stay there, on a day to day basis. On top of that, you have to find the cheapest flights, this is where you can really save a lot. If you're thinking of the Balkans, then Bulgaria is the place to go this year if you want to see your pound stretch a little bit further.

For trips to the seaside, look for hotels and flights to Varna or Burgas, the two biggest cities along the coast of the Black Sea.

For more information check out the Holiday Costs Barometre.

Macedonian monasteries: Sveti Naum

2011-04-12T01:06:00.000-07:00

As one of the most popular tourist attractions in all of Macedonia, you'd think we'd have covered this one already. Sveti Naum, near the Albanian border, is magnificent. Its grounds with its peacocks, Lake Ohrid, the beautiful 17th c. church, the hotel... The entire region is rich in monasteries, churches and caves.

The original church was built in 900 by St. Naum himself (who is buried there). Legend says that if you put your ear to his tomb, you can still hear his heart beat. His sweat and blood are what made this beautiful site possible. From the monastery grounds, you can see the Albanian town of Pogradec on the other side of the lake on a clear day.

Admission to the Church of Sveti Naum: 100MKD (approx. £1.45)

Other churches and monasteries in the area include:

Church of St. Sofia
Church of St. Bogorodica Perivlepta
St. Clement's monastery
Church of St. Nicholas Bolnicki
Church of St. Dimitry
Church of the Holy Mother

There are, because of the landscape, some churches located in caves as well. St. Erasmo, St. Stefan and St. Bogorodica all built churches in the cave system nearby. In most the frescos painted right on to the ceilings of the caves have been preserved but the caves themselves went through numerous reconstructions during their existence. Archaeologists estimate that they date back as far at the beginning of the 13th c. and were used by small groups of monks looking for solitude and peace for prayer.

Reaching the beautiful Lake Ohrid is easy. There is an airport 9 km from the town and is used by the following airlines: Ada Air, Balkan Airlines, Adria Airways, MAT, JAT and Aviompeks. The easiest way to get here though is to fly to Skopje and drive. It's essential though to do a proper flight comparison to know when is the best time to fly to Macedonia.

Have you ever been? What other sights around Macedonia do you recommend?

Stolen wallet/passort... now what?

2011-03-29T06:27:00.000-07:00

While I haven't had my passport stolen, I have had my wallet (and all my money and bank cards) stolen while travelling in a foreign country... three times. It's not that I'm careless, it's just that the pick-pocketers are more skilled than I am, apparently. But what do you do if you lose it all? It can happen in an instant. All it takes is one second, you put down your bag and look away. SWOOSH!

You look back and it's gone. The feeling of dread sets in, you freak out and you think it's hopeless. A lot of travellers think they're immune to situations like this one, but truth is, it happens at the exact moment you let your guard down. So here's what to do if it happens to you.

DON'T PANIC
Yeah, right. I know. Don' be hard on yourself because it happens to even the most seasoned travellers. Take a few breaths, and get yourself together. Having a positive attitude is the best way to solve the problem since we all know panic is the worst way to solve a problem.

GO TO THE POLICE
First thing's first. Go to the police office and report the loss or theft. Get a copy of the report, it will make replacing your passport easier or file an insurance claim for pricey travel gear or rail passes. If you're lucky your bag might actually turn up again! (This happened to me 1/3 times, I actually got my wallet back, sans money though).

GET A NEW PASSPORT
Since travelling even on the cheapest flights requires a passport, this is the next thing you need to do. It is your only piece of globally-accepted identification. Head to the closest embassy or consulate. Most have emergency numbers but others you'll need to go to during opening hours and wait your turn. Generally replacement passports are available within a few days. They can also arrange for someone at home to "wire" you some money if you haven't done that already.

CANCEL CREDIT/DEBIT CARDS
Generally you should cancel your banking cards within 48 hours. Most major credit cards can get you a replacement within a day or two in the Balkans. Some even wire money over to you to help pay your food/accommodations in the mean time.

REARRANGE TRAVEL PLANS
In some cases, losing important travel documents may mean staying put for a little longer than you planned. The most important thing is to be flexible. Cancel hotel reservations and rearrange flights as soon as possible to avoid any further penalizations. Try to keep cool, it's not the end of the world and at the end of it all, it will probably make a good story by the time you get home.

Have you ever had everything stolen while travelling? What was the first thing you did? What do you wish you had some differently in the heat of the moment?

[images from zoetnet and jackpix from Flickr, creative commons]

As if you need them: Top 3 reasons to visit the Balkans

2011-03-10T02:07:00.000-08:00

Backpackers are slowly discovering the discounts and total positive points of travelling through the Balkans. While some, especially backpackers from North America, focus entirely on Western Europe, hitting up spots like Amsterdam, London, Dublin, Paris and Munich... there's a whole other world waiting for a fraction of the price and a train ride away. If you haven't travelled through the Balkan countries and you've stumbled onto this blog, I hope you're inspired to check them out. Airline tickets to major cities are cheap and easy to come by, so you've got no excuses not to!

Why?

Here are the top 3 reasons

Beach, sand and surfing:

This isn't Hawaii or Sydney but did you know that Albania, Slovenia and even Montenegro have awesome beaches? The biggest plus is that they're not overcrowded with tourists from huge cruise ships with pricey cameras slung around their necks and designer towels draped over their shoulders. The Adriatic Sea is clear and blue.

Adventure is easy to find:

Have you ever tried water-rafting? How about in Bosnia? While the country's bad reputation comes from its civil war history, the place has totally changed since then. If you're into adrenaline-pumping water sports, try white water rafting here. The Julian Alps are also great for skiing, Sarajevo did after all host the Winter Olympics in the 1980s.

Nightlife:

Top city to party in this corner of the world? Definitely Belgrade. The city has a constantly flow of young people and plenty of clubs and bars are opening all the time. Party boats are also popular. Sarajevo, Budva and Hvar in Croatia are also cool spots to party. What's their preferred drink? It's a local brandy called rakia. Some hotels even offer a shot of it upon arrival.

Balkan Cooking: Cevapi

2011-02-16T03:46:00.000-08:00

For many of us, one of the biggest joys of travelling is without a doubt the food. Why else do so many flock to Italy? For the coliseum? You've got to be kidding me... Of course it's for the fresh pasta, deep red wines and grandma's sauce that is "to die for..."

One of the reasons I keep returning to the Balkans is also for the food. There are so many flavours and regional dishes are hearty and tasty. Although cuisine greatly differs from region to region, I'd love to introduce a series on this blog about Balkan cooking, hoping to highlight some favourite eats while travelling through the Balkans. You can always grab cheap flights to your favourite Balkan state when you get that craving for your favourite dish, but it's also nice to be able to make it at home.

What are some of your favourites? Are there recipes you'd like to see featured?

Without further ado: Cevapi

Traditionally Bosnian, these small grilled rolls of ground beef (or lamb) in pita bread are mouth-watering. They're usually served with chopped onions, cheese and ajvar (spicy red pepper paste).

How to make them:

500g ground beef (or 350g beef, 150g minced lamb)

40ml water

30ml oil (preferrably olive oil)

Salt & pepper (to taste)

1. Combine ingredients the day before, letting it stand in the fridge overnight.
2. Wet hands and shape the mixture into uniform rolls. Place on a tray.
3. Cook the cevapi on a hot barbecue for 6 to 10 minutes, turning frequently so as not to burn.
4. Cevapi can be served on their own or on a pita.

Strikes in Greece, trains delayed

2011-01-28T04:17:00.000-08:00

It is no surprise that Greece is in the midst of another round of strikes that are causing delays to travel, greatly effecting tourism. A two-day strike is under-way, upsetting international train schedules between Greece and Bulgaria.

Those travelling between Sofia and Thessaloniki by train on January 26th and 27th, 2011 will have to make different arrangements as the morning international service will not run. Trains running to Bucharest, the Romanian capital, will only travel to Kulata (not Sofia), along the Greek-Bulgarian boarder. There will be a charter bus to transport passengers during the Greek leg of the journey from Kulata.

There are refunds available to all passengers who purchased tickets for these trains, available at the train stations in both Thessaloniki and Sofia.

The strikes will affect most all travel between Greece and other destinations, including Cyprus. Your best best for arriving in Athens is to grab flights to Greece rather than to travel by train, likewise if you are travelling onwards from Greece.

The strikes do not just effect the Greek Rail Service, but also many other industries in the debt-plagued country like lawyers associations, labour and civil servant unions, and pharmacists.

Have you been effected by a strike before? Was it easy to make alternative plans, did you ever receive compensation?

Unfortunately, when travelling through Balkan countries, you never know what will happen. Fortunately that is a major part of the fun, being able to go with the flow, so to speak and enjoy it!

Road trip: Sarajevo to Dubrovnik

2011-01-04T06:46:00.000-08:00

Road trips might not be so opportune at this time of the year what with snowy roads and slippery slopes but as soon as spring and summer arrive, car rental will be the way to get around the Balkans. If you're looking for a cool route that will only take a couple days (that is if you really take your time), then check this one out. It's inspired by a video on lonelyplanet.tv.

Start: Sarajevo (Bosnia and Herzegovina)
Heading down the E73, the pretty landscapes and quaint villages will be the first things you notice while leaving the city. Taking the roads less travelled you'll be abel to se a lot more. Don't hesitate to stop, walk around and visit the marketplace, drink a coffee or ask a local what you should see while you're there.

Jablanica is a prime example.

Head further along the E73 to Mostar, famous for its UNESCO bridge and distinct neighbourhoods. I previously wrote about this small city, just follow the link.

From Mostar, you can go many ways, I'd suggest sticking to the smaller roads to get to the Croatian border. Once you cross, it's smooth sailing to Dubrovnik.

End: Dubrovnik, Croatia

No visas for Albanians and Bosnians for EU travel

2010-12-17T05:57:00.000-08:00

Bosnians and Albanians have something to celebrate this week and that's being granted visa-free travel to the European Union. Travellers must hold the new biometric passport to be granted the free passage which was initiated on December 15th, 2010. Currently Kosovo is the only Balkan country left that doesn't have visa-free status to travel into Europe.

The first cars to cross the boarder to Greece were celebrated with fireworks and in general there was a huge burst of Albanians travelling ay train, air, car and ferry to the EU in celebration. Bosnians were generally less enthused despite the travel deals and cheap hotels available on the table to celebrate the occasion.

The European-standard biometric passports cost €50 and more than a whopping one million Albanians have signed up to get the new passport compared to the 400,000 Bosnians that currently have one.

Is it because of the money?

It is inevitable that there will be a jump of asylum applications from poor families hoping to make more money either legally or illegally thanks to the loose borders now. We won't see Europe change over night but we can expect a rise in immigration from these two countries now that visa's won't be an issue.

Safety in the Balkans

2010-11-24T05:19:00.000-08:00

When you tell someone you're going on a trip through the Balkans or on a holiday to Serbia, you might get some funny looks. A lot of people still have funny ideas about these countries, that they're still war-ridden or unsafe. Fortunately the 1990s are long gone, and so is the violence with it. The truth of the matter is, the Balkans are the safest places to travel in Europe! Did you know?

In a UN report, it shows a steady decline in crimes such as homicide, robbery, rape and others against foreigners and in general. In Western Europe, these crimes are on the rise. There can be however local politics that can cause trouble and even danger. So just to be safe check out these tips before booking any airline tickets to the Balkan countries. These aren't however Balkan-only travel tips, they're pretty general and should be used consciously anywhere in the world.

1. Don't dress like a tourist. Leave the bling: gold watches, jewellery, etc. at home or in your hotel safe where it cannot be stolen. Fitting in with the locals isn't hard to do, you will want to find a less conspicuous place for your DSLR than slung around your neck though.

2. Avoid confrontations at all costs, especially in public disagreements with local citizens. If you do see a protest or riot, walk the other way and find safety either in a bar, restaurant, hotel, etc. Getting involved in the wrong crowd at the wrong time could land you in a Balkan jail.

3. Don't discuss travel plan details with anyone in a public place. Never give out your hotel room number or the details about your stay. Pretty self-explanatory, right?

4. There is a lot of pick-pocketing going on everywhere in Europe, Barcelona being the worst for it in the world. So keep it close and walk around in groups as much as possible. At night, it's to your best interest to avoid dim-lit tunnels and walkways.

5. Some Balkan regions lack the medical emergency care that we're used to. Always make sure that your traveller's insurance covers emergency medical evacuation, just in case.

6. If you hire a car, make sure it is from a reputable company and that their insurance will take care of you in case of accident or breakdown. In Bosnia for example, there are many roads without guard rails and frequent fog, so drive with caution when the weather turns.

It all comes down to being aware of yourself and your surroundings. If you travel with a level head, you shouldn't run into any trouble. As mentioned earlier, the Balkans is one of the safest regions to travel in Europe, so enjoy it!

Grillin' up some testicles in Serbia

2010-11-03T06:04:00.000-07:00

That's right. Did you know that Serbia is (proudly) home to the first official testicle cooking and eating festival in the world? Usually held at the end of summertime, this fetish food-fest attracts the young, old, beautiful and the ugly for one of the world's strangest delicacies. The village of Borac plays host to "Mudriada", the Olympics for testicle cookers.

This food festival took place for the first time in 2005 and one might say, this type of thing could only happen in the Balkans... Naturally an event like this attracts a lot of attention, soon transforming it into a competition for the best tasting testicles rather than just a celebration of the delicacy.

Almost instantly the village explodes with people, tents, music, dancing and bonfires used to cook the meat on festival day. Bottles of wine, brandy, oils and jars of spices are already lining the tables, so cooks can easily choose their flavour. Cars line up for miles, trying to find parking spots as close to the action as possible. What I think is the real clincher is that ancient Chinese myths say that testicles are the most powerful aphrodisiac (maybe this is why there are so many big Serbian men with their women in tow)!

The cooking starts at noon and the pork, veal, goat ad ram testicles start to grill. My mid-afternoon the cooking finishes and the judging panel makes their decision. After the prizes are awarded the celebrations begin, going long into the night.

One of the great things is that the village isn't far from Belgrade which means that a festival like this is totally accessible for a budget traveller. Wizz Air for example flies to Serbia from London, you just have to keep an eye open for hot travel deals. Trips to the Balkan states are never boring, that's for sure!

The Museum of Broken Relationships... only in the Balkans

2010-10-13T06:41:00.000-07:00

When I come across cool museums I like to write about them, in hopes that maybe someone else might also thing they're cool and worth visiting while they're also travelling. There is one museums in the Balkans that caught my attention recently, not because it's particularly cool, which it very may well be, but because it's nothing like anything I've seen or heard about before. It's the Museum of Broken Relationships and you can find it in Croatia's lovely capital of Zagreb.

The museum's collection went on a world tour recently, a travelling exhibition you might say, but has come back to its permanent home in Zagreb. The museum is dedicated to couples you have split, going their separate ways and leaving behind appliances, motorcycles, "momentos"... things that neither wanted to keep or simply things that just didn't stop reminding one of their lost partner.

The real draw, that if you're going through a tough break-up you can contribute to the museum's collection! Get rid of that coffee maker, suitcase from your honeymoon, books, etc. that remind you of your last partner and move on.

Want to visit?
Cirlometodska 2, Zagreg
Open: 9:00-21:00
Admission: 20 kn

I've written about a trip to the south of Croatia before but the capital deserves more attention. Lucky for me there are plenty of low cost airlines servicing the route London-Zagreb and it's quite easy to find good deals for weekend trips.

Have you ever been?

Izmir: hard to love, hard to leave

2010-09-15T02:55:00.000-07:00

Turkey's Aegean coast sure does attract a lot of travellers for a lot of reasons. The apple of the proverbial coast's eye is of course Antalya, stock-full of resorts, beaches, restaurants and nightclubs. Izmir is different though. Many say it's a hard city to love, simply because it's so modern, lacking the historical charm that cities like Istanbul have a lot of.

You may not love it at first, but after a little time you'll start to see why it's such a hard city to leave. This is mostly due to one thing: the city mayor. Mister Ahmet Piriştina effectively scrapped urban developer's plans to build a free way along the coast and instead turned the area into a bustling pedestrian area. He is a man that still believes in the "little people" rather than money.

Local hero: Check
Pedestrian friendly seaside: Check
Old historical centre: "uhh..."

Not so fast on that one. I said the city is modern but there is still hope for finding a trendy and very charming café or tea house in Izmir and that's in Alsancak, the older part of the city that is currently being totally restored back to it's old charm. Actually, it really reminds me of something off of a Greek island and the new restaurants and bars planned to move in should be just the thing this city needs.

Spare a day or two to visit Izmir on your Balkan tour or if you're on your way further down the coast. Here are a few "must-have" experiences that every Izmir visitor should have:

Jog/walk/run/loiter along the city's waterfront

Take in the views of the Kadifekale castle (yes that's right Izmir has a castle)

Shop at the bazaar where you'll find everything from colourful songbirds, wedding dresses, spices, grilled meats, dried fruits and glass lanterns

Sip a Turkish coffee after an inevitably exhausting shopping trip

Soak in the local luxuries at a hamam, for a few extra Euro you can get a massage as well

Dine like the divine at waterfront restaurant or a small family-run place near the bazaar

I'd recommend starting in Izmir and then heading down along the coast towards Antalya and other such places. It'd be a shame to miss this diamond in the ruff, it is after all Turkey's third largest city! You can find flights with Onur Air, take a train or go the slow route... by bus. It's up to you but if you do happen upon Izmir, let me know!

[I'm convinced black and white photography can make any city look good, these all come from Ronn ashore on flickr]

100 things to do in Belgrade

2010-08-31T02:27:00.000-07:00

When a recent commenter asked me to do another post on Belgrade I was sort of scratching my head about what to write about since I already wrote about how to spend a weekend in Belgrade. To be honest, Belgrade isn't a pretty city, even the locals will admit that. But there is more to a city than just looks and this is where Belgrade really gets interesting.

When it comes to the Serbian capital, it's all about experience.

So how can a traveller experience Belgrade?
Well. I've come across an epic list of 100 things to do in Belgrade, not just for tourists but for locals too. If you're thinking, "Good grief is she really going to list 100 things to do in Belgrade?" then rest assured I'm not. I'll list only 10 and then if that's not enough, you can go here and read about the other 90.

Gradic Pejton - visit this symbol of struggle against the New World Order and while you're at it, browse the craft shops in the surrounding neighbourhood.
Dervish "turbe" - left over from the Ottoman era, you can find this little marker at the beginning of Visnjiceva Street.
Zeleni Venac - shop the black market and live life on the edge a bit. Enjoy the bustle of this somewhat mysterious pedestrian street.
Kalemegdan - the best place to buy a five hundred billion dinar note for only one hundred dinars from a Belgrade memorabilia shop.
Svetogorska Street 17 - home of the first discotheque in the Balkans. It opened in 1967 but you'll need to report back if you want to know what's there now.
Kaludjerica - undoubtedly the wildest suburban area in Europe, constructed totally without any building permits.
Tram #2 - skip the hop on hop off buses, take the tram instead. Like Budapest, the Tram #2 gives you the complete and "unofficial" tour of Belgrade's best sights.
Balkanska Street - for shopping and browsing vintage shops that haven't quite noticed that they're vintage... they just haven't changed in 30 years.
Salvador Dali - Hidden on the corner of Dorcol, you'll get a little glimpse at local humour.
Sweets - Find yourself a stool at an old-fashioned candy shop. If you're not sure what to order, taste some Turkish Delight.

Belgrade shouldn't be underestimated. Start your trip through the Balkans here, you might be surprised at how easy it is to find cheap flights to Belgrade year round. If you've been and want to add some more experiences to the list, leave a comment!

Mosying around Mostar

2010-08-09T04:49:00.000-07:00

One thing that still completely strikes me is how many people are surprised when I say that I'm willingly going to spend my holidays in countries like Bosnia and Herzegovina in the Balkans. These country's beauty and charm I guess doesn't attract everyone, for the same reason probably that the French Riviera doesn't attract me.

Want to know where I'm heading this time? Mostar.

Famous for its Stari Most (Old Bridge), Mostar is one of the most important cities in Herzegovina today. More than 15 million dollars has been spent on restoring the city after the end of the major part of the war in the mid-1990s. Most of this money when to rebuild the city's famous bridge and the surrounding area. Today it's as charming as it was before and the rehabilitation efforts are noticed within minutes.

The bridge connects the two sides of the cities, which were very much divided before the war with the Bosnian Muslims libinvong on one side and the Croatian catholics livingon the other. It was built originally by the Turkish in the 1500s.

The Ottoman Quarter, named Kunjundziluk became famous for its coppersmiths and artisans. Today its streets are filled with artist studios, cool cafés and shops where you can buy locally crafted jewellery and ornaments. Both sides of the river have something unique to offer. The eastern side in particular is known for its old 16th and 17th century houses built in Turkish style.

What really strikes me about this city? That although you can still spot traces of war, the locals are determined to keep things light and fresh. Take this outdoor café for example (there's no one sitting outside because the photograph was taken just after a hail storm!), I can imagine it's a popular hang out place for the city's twenty-somethings and thirsty visitors.

As for my trip, I'll be taking the train from Sarajevo to Mostar (an infrequent service to say the least) and I've already found a really cheap hotel with a view of the bridge (so they promise) using a travel search site, liligo.com. Looks useful for finding the cheapest hotels in Europe and just about anywhere else in the world!

Have you ever used it? What other kinds of sites to you use to make your travel plans?

Freedom Festival in Kosovo

2010-07-28T06:13:00.000-07:00

Many young travellers look forward to and even plan their travels around different music and cultural festivals around Europe. Kosovo's Freedom Festival is new on the festival scene and it's attracting the local and foreign attention, hoping to bring new life and tourism to the city this summer. It took place in June and was a riot, with both local and foreign bands of varying genres the country's youth were dancing until the sun rose.

The festival hopes to forever change the rest of the world's perceptions of Kosovo, by attracting Western Europe's and North America's young people to the country to see what it really is. For most of us images of bombed buildings, ruins, poverty and political tension are the first things to come to mind. Actually visitors to Pristina are confronted with busy streets lined with trees, cafés, bars and plazas, filled with young people that seem to have nothing to do except enjoy themselves.

Incredible isn't it?

Kosovo is in fact a young country with much development planned for the future. The country currently has an unemployment rate of 45%, the highest in Europe. Kosovo has a far way to go but it's taking the right steps to get there and attracting tourists to the region is half of the battle. The capital and surrounding cities have something special to offer, something you cannot find anywhere else in Europe, so explore!

Kosovo, apart from many other things, is a very affordable travel destination in a very culturally rich region. You've already missed out on this summer's Freedom Festival but there is always a chance to catch it next! In the mean time, it doesn't hurt to look for check out some cheap flights from London to Pristina, it's a city with charm all year round.

A weekend in Belgrade and a royal palace

2010-07-05T02:46:00.000-07:00

If you're in Belgrade for a weekend, there is one place that you should put at the top of your list (if it's not already there): The Royal Palace near Dedinje. Built in 1924 by two architects from the Royal Academy, this compound was once the home of Tito and Milosevic.

The Royal home in Belgrade, Serbia is open to the public only on weekends. Visitors are welcome to wander the interior hallways, admire the elegant salons and dining rooms and enjoy a stunning view of the city from the top of Dedinje Hill. If it is a clear day, you can see as far as Kosutnjak Forest and Avala.

Until October the Royal compound will be open Saturdsays and Sundays from 11:00 until 14:00. Registration in advance is necessary, especially for tours through the While Palace, Ryoal Palace and Chapel. The tour takes 2 hours.

What else to do in Belgrade on a weekend?

Visit the house where the assassins of Franz Ferdinand planned their attack. It's on the corner of Narodnog Fronta and Kamenicka Street.

Explore the Bujljak, a flea market in New Belgrade which is especially busy on Saturdays.

Visit the House of Flowers where Josip Broz Tito is buried.

Spend an afternoon tasting the baked goods and sugary delights of the city by stopping in at a few of the many bakeries, cake and sweet shops.

Find the oldest house in Belgrade, built in 1727 in Cara Dusana Street 10. Since Belgrade has been bombed 5 times in the last century, it seems a miracle that it's still standing.

If you want an unguided tour of the city centre, just hop on Tram #2.

Grab an evening flick at the Kinoteka, one of the richest movie collections in Europe and the world. A must for movie buffs and film lovers.

Belgrade may not be the prettiest city in Serbia, or in the Balkans for that matter, but it is a city with an exciting past and pretty palaces. If there is anything to really get excited about here it's the night life. Seems every night is Friday and everyday is Saturday in the capital, something of course everyone can get used to. There are cheap flights from Newcastle to Belgrade with both KLM and British Airways.

Albania's Ionian Coast, an adventure into the wild

2010-06-23T06:23:00.000-07:00

Wouldn't it be nice to go swimming here? Dark blue waters and rugged shorelines, Albania is just a child when it comes to outdoor tourism but it's something that is picking up which means the Ionian Coast is going to be where it's at in a few years. Wild landscapes and ancient ruins, turquoise pools and lone wolves. So beat the crowds and enjoy it while you can!

How to get there:

You can find cheap flights from Belfast to Tirana, the capital of Albania, from a number of airlines like British Airways, Lufthansa and SAS. Albania's main international airport is Rinas International Airport (TIA) which is located just 10 km north of the city.

What to see:

Llogaraja Pass

If you're an outdoors junkie who seeks thrilling heights around the world, then need you head to Llogaraja Pass. It is a road that travels south from Vlora and reaches 1000 m in height. Albania has never looked to beautiful than from above. From the top you can see mountains disappearing into the clouds, the steep cliffs that effortlessly fall into the sea and thick forests that are home to wolves and wild boar. Albania is majestic and completely wild.

Syri i Kalter

Lose your sense at the Blue Eyed Spring, a pool of water that is surrounded by vibrant blue edges, like the iris of an eye. The pool flows into the Bistrica River and no one knows exactly how deep it is, adding to the mystery. Enjoy a picnic, take a dip and relax under the shade of an oak.

Butrinti

Butrini is both home to some of the country's most renown ancient ruins and part of a national park. It is the perfect place to spend an afternoon exploring the place once inhabited by Greeks centuries past. It was later occupied by the Byzantines and then abandoned until the late 1920s when it was discovered by archaeologist.

Have you ever been?

Undiscovered Skopje

2010-06-01T03:29:00.000-07:00

The capital of Macedonia is one of the undiscovered gems of the Balkans. It is Macedonia's political and cultural centre and is one that have been overlooked not only as a Balkan destination but a European one at that. It lies between Belgrade and Athens, looking over Vardar River. Once occupied by neolithic people, Romans, Ottoman Turks who were finally ousted at the onset of the Balkan War in the early 1990s. This city, as you can imagine, has a lot to offer in the realm of historical monuments, a collection of lingering influences from the many people that once inhabited the city.

The city had to rebuild itself after a devastating earthquake in the 1960s, tearing down most of the city's infrastructure that was built up after the Second World War and damaging many of the city's ancient ruins. The city rebuilt and today has a trendy and modern feel to it.

What to see:

Stone Bridge: This bridge dates from the time of Sultan Mehmed II the Conqueror, around 1450s. It has become an emblem of the city.

Old Town: The city bazaar is found between the Kale Fortress and Vardar River. It was historically, as it is today, the the economic centre of the city. The city's best Ottoman architecture can be found here as well, head to the part known as Charshi (which means market place).

Kale Fortress: On the hill is a large fortress that was built by the Turks. The castle walls still stand today and was originally built in the 6th century. From here you can see the entire city.

St. Pantelejmon: A humble monastery, St. Pantelejmon was built in the 12th centuryand houses some of the more impressive examples of Byzantine artwork, not only in Macedonia but in Europe. There is a restaurant on-site that gives visitors a chance to taste authentic Macedonian cuisine, cooked up by the resident monks.

If you want to just hang out in Skopje, there are dozens of cafés and bars that line the Vardar River, always busy on summer evenings. Many have outdoor patios too. A popular place to watch the locals is called New Age, its a garden shed that was turned into a coffee house and is located beside the Catholic Church. There's a treasure trove of old wooden chairs, wobbly tables, very used chess boards and soft cushions and herbal tea.

The Adriatic Coast of Montenegro

2010-05-17T02:39:00.000-07:00

Mountains dropping into the sea, wispy waves crashing into the rock; Montenegro's coast is dynamic and far less tread than it's neighbour's in Croatia. Along the coast you won't find resort towns or 4-star all-inclusive hotels. What you will find however are castles, churches, medieval walls, mansions and spectacular gardens. The Bay of Kotor is one of the most beautiful bays in the Mediterranean but is still yet undiscovered by the hoards of tourists which make it still one of the great treasures of the Balkans.

The town of Kotor is located in the inner most part of the bay, protected from wind and storms. It is surrounded by walls which have stood for centuries now. Within the city walls you'll find tiny streets leaving to picturesque squares and plazas, a labyrinth of homes and shops. The only landmark one can see from the whole city is St. Tryphon's Cathedral. Recognized by its two square towers built in a mix of Byzantine, Roman, Venetian styles.

A must-do in this area is a climb to the top of the city's walls at the Fortress of St. Ivan. From here you'll be able to see most of the bay, the city below you, and the dome of the church in the next village in Perest.

From Kotor there are a number of great day trips you can take, Perest for example, is known for its "floating churches." Out in the bay you can find two churches sitting atop small islands and appear in certain light to be floating on the water.

Herceg Novi is the one place in the area where you'll actuallly find a resort, the trickling over from Croatia's border. The old town that sweeps up the hillside is very aattractive and quaint, a nice spot to enjoy the sunshine.

If you're looking for a place to bathe and soak in the sea, Budva is a better place to head. It is no more than a half hour drive from Kotor and you'll find a city that still keeps it's medieval charm despite having been almost completely demolished in an earthquake in the last 1970s. Just south of Budva is Sveti Stefan, an old and popular fishing village on an island which has been invaded by hotels and is often crowded by tourists, especially in the summertime.

Details:
You can reach Kotor by plane. Trivat Airport is only 5 km away and there are regularly scheduled flights from Belgrade and Zurich arriving daily. A little further away is Podgorica Airport (65 km) which is serviced by many airline flights from all over Europe.

Two weeks in Greece: city and sand

2010-05-04T02:17:00.000-07:00

Greece is heating up, its all over the news, debt-ridden but nonetheless an attractive destination this summer. Can you think of anything more heavenly than spending a week or two on a Greek island, soaking in the sun, enjoying a glass of retsina wine while reading up on ancient history or a classic like the Odyssey or one of Euripides' plays.

Depending on what kind of traveller you are, you might enjoy a tranquil stay in Greece rather than one filled with crowded attractions and boisterous taverns. If you're a tranquil traveller, you should head for Folegandros; it is located about 100 miles from Athens and is one of the most southern Cyclades islands. Historically it is where most of the criminals and socially-inept were sent, but today it's all about tourism. You can reach it by ferry and you can be sure it'll be quiet, most tourists overlook it for the more popular islands. You could easily spend one week there, but the other islands in the area are also worth a visit. Wineries spot Santorini's inland and coastline. Sifno and Paros are also good choices.

As for week two of your vacation, fill it with a tour of ancient ruins. After all Greece is king when it comes to ancient history and the leftovers from it. If you're going to visit Athens think about travelling there in the Spring or Autumn when tourist numbers are down and so is the heat. It can be scorching in the city by noon, making it unpleasant to go out for the main part of the day. You can buy a 12 Euro ticket which gives you entrance to all of them, including the infamous Acropolis. The ticket is valid for one week. Visit the Theatre of Dionysus and Kerameikos. Take Bus #400, it costs 5 Euros for the day but will take you to all of the major landmarks. You can also rent a car and get out of the city, Delphi and Meteora are perfect.

If you are worried about the recent worker's strike, you shouldn't panic. Tourism is one of the country's major industries and they need all of the tourists they can get right now. Plan your ferries and flights for weekends, as many of the travel strikes tend to take place during the week, May 5th for example. It's also best to plan your Athen's portion of the trip for the second half; if there are any transit problems you'll at least not miss your flight home.

Have any ideas of your own for travel to Greece? Add them to our itinerary by leaving a comment below!

Try saying Ljubljana three times fast!

2010-04-13T07:47:00.000-07:00

Now that your tongue's all in a twist, let's talk about Slovenia. Yes, that little country sandwiched between Austria and Croatia. It's often left out of the Balkan loop because of its historical ties to Central Europe and the lack of Ottoman influence. But if we're going to be technical than perhaps Slovenia has no place on this blog about Balkan travels but it is still a destination country in and around the Balkan region that should not be skipped.

Postojna Cave: a network of 20 km of passages and chambers which have attracted visitors for almost 200 years. Take the "cave train" through the labyrinth. There is lighting to you can see how geology records time through its layers and formations. Guided tours last about an hour and a half.

Triglav National Park: "The Kingdom of the Seven Triglav Lakes is a land that does not know how to smile, so deeply serious have the natural forces designed its face and chosen its colours." (Julius Kugy, mountaineer) This national park is best known for its network of walking, trekking and cycling routes through flat valleys and rigorous mountain terrain.

Šempeter: Antiquity is preserved in this town in the form of a Roman necropolis filled with 1st century tombs. The sepulchres have been reconstructed complete with columns, peaked roofs and griffins guarding the dead.

Ptuj: This town is one of the oldest in the country, dating back to Medieval Times. It is worth a day visit to see the museums, monasteries and castles.

Bled: It is crawling with tourists but there is good reason why it's so popular. The island church and the mountain peaks are indescribable.

Slovenia may be small but there is a lot to offer. The capital, Ljubljana is located in the approximate middle and its the best place to station yourself and then take day trips outside to the different regions. Grab a cheap flight to Ljubljana from practically anywhere in Europe and you won't be disappointed with your choice. The city is quite small of a European capital making it totally accessible on foot or on bicycle. The best places to eat are around the university faculties where more than 50 000 students are studying. There is more than enough choice when it comes to cafes, bars, bistros and restaurants. The pace is laid back and definitely addictive.

Prague never slows down!

2010-03-30T03:15:00.001-07:00

Czech Republic is one of those countries that has been a popular travel destination for decades and is showing no signs of stopping. Prague is exceptional for many reasons and is often found at the top of traveller's destination list for many reason, its architecture, fantastic beers, rich foods and stunning countryside, among many others. Its not the bargain city that it used to be fifteen-twenty years ago, but Prague still satisfies on all levels.

It is very easy to get to Prague, its one of the most accessible cities in Europe thanks to the number of low cost airlines. You can find cheap flights to Prague from just about any major European city. Once you arrive at the airport, you can take the city's metro network all the way to the city centre.

It's hard to know where to start in a city like there when there is so much to see! I'll help you out with a list of some must-sees which I really enjoyed when I visited Prague.

Charles Bridge: Prague's 600-year-old bridge, built in perfect Gothic style. It is lined with 30 different Baroque statues depicting religious figures. It is best enjoyed in the early morning or in the evening when tourist crowds die down.

The Dancing Building in New Town: This building has also been nicknamed the Fred & Ginger. The narrow-waisted glass tower was built in 1996 and it really looks like two buildings dancing together. You can find it at Rašínovo nábřeží 80.

Novy Svet: This quiet street is a life-saver once you've battled your way through crowds at Prague's most popular museums. For some its reminiscent of a Bohemian village. Browse around the different shops, stop for a bit to each. Today its a popular artist neighbourhood with plenty to explore.

Old Town Square: If you love Baroque and Gothic architecture, head to this square, its one of the most beautiful in Europe. The square is lined with exquisite facades. You can find the famous Astronomical Clock here, which should be caught on the hour to see the display.If you come at night you can see the spires on Tyne Church lit up.

Franz Kafka: This famous author and thinker has his own monument and museum in Prague. The monument is located beside the Spanish Synagogue and features a min-Kafka riding piggy-back with his headless body. The museum is a permanent exhibition of Kafka's early letters, photographs, videos, newspapers, that show how the city of Prague shaped Kafka as a writer. It is located at Hergetova Cíhelná, Cihelná 2b. You can also visit Franz Kafka's birth place at Náměstí Franze Kafky 3.

If you have had enough, find yourself in a small pub in any part of Prague and enjoy one of the many local beers. Need something to eat? Try a traditional potato pancake with some local cheese, a favourite snack at the bar.

Kiev is undoubtedly the city of churches

2010-02-26T04:28:00.000-08:00

Kiev is located in beautiful Ukraine. The city scape can be a bit confusing but when you really explore the streets and take a look at a history book, it all makes sense. The city's buildings are made up of part modern skyscrapers and office buildings, part Soviet nationalist design, part Ukraine nationalist style, a bit of Russian influence and a few others and you have Kiev. There is nothing surprising about the montage of Soviet monuments and modern glass and steel buildings anymore, Kiev is embraced as one of the most beautiful cities in Ukraine because of it.

Apart for the city's architecture and its natural beauty, one can really see that Kiev is undoubtedly a city of churches. Tall and glimmering in the summer light, these cathedrals are magnificent. You can grab cheap flights to Kiev all the time from London. and Wizz Air Austrian Airlines are the two airline that fly this route the most. Kiev is a perfect spot to spend a few days, a long weekend, especially in the summer when you can take full advantage of Hydropark, taking walks along the Dnipro River or strolling the city's streets like Khreshchatyk.

The first place you should check out is without a doubt St. Sophia's Cathedral. It is the main monument of the city and is well worth a visit. It is open for visitors daily from 9:00 to 19:00. Inside you can find incredible mosaics and frescos, some of which date back to 1017 when the cathedral was first built. There is also a really nice bell tower in the front of the church. If you need a place to stay in Kiev, I recommend looking for a cheap hotel in this area. There are many walking streets around and if you're lucky you can find a room with a view of St. Sophia's many spindles.

Next head to Andreevsky Spusk (Andrew Street), the city's most famous and oldest street. Walk along it and visit the many shops and galleries. Don't be surprised if this neighbourhood reminds you of Paris' Montmartre! At the end of the street is St. Andrew's Cathedral, a perfect example of Baroque architecture.

If you are heading up to the top of the hill, make time to stop at Kievo-Pecherskaya Lavr, a huge monastery dated back to 13th century. It is a very sacred place and is a popular destination for Orthodox Christians that are making pilgrimages. Parts of the property were destroyed during the Second World War but the monastery remained unscathed from the bombings.

The city of Kiev has really been shaped by its history, picking up influences from the different eras since it was inhabited. This montage of influence makes Kiev a perfect city to visit for those travellers who love architecture, love culture and love history. There are countless opportunities to find preserved cathedrals and their frescos that managed to not be destroyed during the war, something more rare in Western cities that were heavily bombed at that time.

Discovering Sofia, Europe's hidden capital

2010-02-08T01:24:00.000-08:00

To be honest I don't know too much about Bulgaria. I don't know much more than that the capital is Sofia. I never paid much attention in geography or history class in school. But I am slowly trying to remedy this passed up knowledge while I take imaginary and real trips to places in the Balkans. I am continuously surprised and impressed when I fall upon a new photograph, a new city. This happened to me this weekend. I was waiting in an office and the only reading materials around were Hungarian newspapers and underneath I found a travel magazine. Bingo! I thought. I started browsing through, and through and through... Egypt.. China.. Peru.. yes, yes.. Bulgaria. Wait! I stopped and took a closer look.

Sofia! It is a small and compact city with dynamic architecture and a great vibe. It is one of those cities that if finally waking up after a long sleep and is still yet to be discovered by all of the tourists passing through on their way to ski or to bathe. Even though it is no buzzing metropolis like many other European capitals, Sofia has enough sights, museums, art galleries and parks to keep any tourist occupied for a week or so. With Mount Vitosha on the outskirts of the city, many come to Sofia in search of the ski hills or the hiking trails in the summertime. But many more should think about spending at least a few days in the city itself before heading up into the mountains.

Sofia itself is accessible by plane, train and automobile. But from the UK it is best to grab a cheap flight to Sofia. Flights in June are already discounted in anticipation of a summer full of travellers, you can fly from London to Sofia for £56. I'd say thats not too bad at all!

Nothing like Croatia to beat the winter blues...

2010-02-01T03:16:00.000-08:00

The only thing to take my mind off of the ice, snow, sleet and my salt-stained boots is Croatia. I have been browsing through pictures and I am getting too excited to see the snow disappear and for it to finally be warm enough to go out with just a sweater. Maybe even sandals. But I think those days are little bit further away than I would like. So in the meantime I am looking around at Croatia through other people's travel photographs. There are some really spectacular places to visit there. I have been hearing a lot about vacations to Croatia's Adiatic coast as being heavenly, a real escape, secluded and dreamy. Is this real? It is hard to imagine that a place like this hasn't already been run over by the tourist train yet and completely violated. But then again, I am finding a lot of inspiring places in the Balkans recently that are still well-kept secrets to the rest of the world. With flights as cheap as £60 from London to Dubrovnik, its hard to not book it right now!

Croatia does have a large tourist popular in the summer months. But it is definitely possible to escape the crowds and find a quiet spot along the long coast and relax on the rocky shores. Even the off-shore islands offer unique little getaways and hiding spots from the crowds. These quaint little towns give travellers just a taste of what it is like to live in this sea-side country. Imagine stepping out your door and seeing turquoise waters like those from the Caribbean every day? These waters are a nice contract to the Alps that run alongside them.

Any trip to Croatia should include Dubrovnik, the busiest city along the coast. It is one of Europe's best restored walled-cities, keeping the baroque-styled buildings hidden from view in the harbor. Placa is the main pedestrian area in the city and it is lined with nice shops and cafés. The city and area are rich in artistic traditions, something the museums have carefully displayed and restored. Beyond the city walls are the countless beaches, islands and peninsulas.

Have you been there?

Roll over Moldova

2010-01-25T00:58:00.000-08:00

Wine, sunflowers, Armenian churches and meadows. It's about time to visit Moldova.

Photograph by Dan Herrick/Lonely Planet Images

Leafing through a travel guide on the weekend I came across a photograph of a beautiful blue church. It looked like something that could come from a dream, or a fairy-take with princes dressed in rich-coloured velvet and gold, riding a stunning white horse. Reading the caption I discovered this church exists outside of my world of make-believe and is located in the Moldovan capital, Chisinau. The All Saints Church is an example of early 1800s architecture of that area, it has incredible towers, with spires on the top, and details in white and gold. It is not however the only architecturally stunning building in Chisinau however. There are more, and the more I look for them, the more I feel like the grim and fantastic tales from my childhood are coming to life. From simple water tours, to the government houses, each line is carefully drawn on these incredible buildings. It is not enough to just travel to a city for its facades, its lines and shapes. Moldova is much more than that. It is not impossible to find a cheap flight to Kishinev, and then really delve into what this small but incredible country has to offer. It is a main contender to be the poorest country in Europe, but even the poor have something to show-off. The Moldovan culture is just as rich as that of the French countryside or Spain's seasides. They have wine and beautiful countryside meadows full of sunflowers. The people are open and friendly. It is one of the few places left in Europe where Soviet remnants are still alive, living history, in a disturbing sort of way.

Cricova is one of the most important wineries in Moldova. In its namesake town, it is just 15km from Chisinau.It has the second largest wine cellar in the world, around 120km of passageways with aging barrels lining the walls; these tunnels have existed underneath the city since the 15th century. This is one of the few remaining wineries that still makes sparking champagne wine with the traditional French methods. Incredible.

Orheiul Vechi is magnificent. It is a cave monastery that has been carved into the side of a limestone cliff. There are caves for worship all over the face of the cliff. Archeologists have discovered skeletons and other remains that date back as far as the 14th century. History is buried in these caves and so is mystery and excitement, the kind that really turns your hairs up on the back of your neck. Many of the complexes are off-limits to tourists and can only be accessed by experienced rock climbers (note to self: learn to climb).

Taking time to relax and get closer to the people is important when travelling, especially in a place like Moldova where the people are so open and have a unique take of life to share. A good place to do this is Satul Modovenesc. It is a retreat away from the city, about 30km, that is nestled between three lakes. Fishing poles are available for those who wish to spend their afternoon lounging in a row boat and trying to catch their supper. Ride horses their the undisturbed forests or in the wintertime play a game of hockey on the frozen lake.

It is sometimes unbelievable how inspiring a few photographs can be to visit a place like this. Moldova is very quickly climbing my list of Balkan destinations to visit. If you're heading to Romania, go a little further into Moldova, I am sure that it won't disappoint.

Balkans travelling to the EU

2010-01-11T01:20:00.000-08:00

In December some rules changed for citizens of Serbia, Macedonia, and Montenegro. They can now travel without visas to countries participating in the Schengen Agreement. Citizens need a biometric passport but can enter and travel around Europe much more easily. A visa is still required for the UK. Many Serbians do not even own passports and are discourage by the cost of travelling and the time it takes to process visas. Now, this is all changing. With border control still strict, citizens have more options for travelling away from the Balkans. While things still remain for those travelling to the Balkans, we will now start to see more and more Serbians, Macedonians, and Montenegroians? travelling to and fro through Europe.

The citizens are of course overjoyed to have more freedom and easier access to the European Union, some airlines offered promotional flights to celebrate the achievement. In return, these countries had to agree to beef up airport security and passport control, limiting illegal immigration and crime in the meantime. Things don't really change for European Union citizens travelling to the Balkans, but it is certainly nice that we will be seeing their faces around more often than before.

Some first thoughts on Turkey

2010-01-06T04:03:00.000-08:00

I put it on my list of resolutions so I figured I would start to think about this possible vacation destination Turkey. From what I've read so far is that Isanbul, being the capital, is the easiest place to start from. Finding out if there are cheap flights to Turkey was easy and its a good option since the buses and trains can be slow and have hold-ups at the border. In particular Sultanahmet where some of the city's major sights and monuments are located near each other. From the main square, the Blue Mosque and the Haghia Sophia are both a stone's throw away. There are thousands of years worth of history in this square kilometre alone, its incredible even though I live in Budapest at how much this area is saturated in politics, culture and world-changing events. You can just breathe history here. From here it is easy to explore the Topkapi Palace and the Grand Bazaar.

I realize the more I travel that not only does the capital city not give a real representation of the country as a whole but that most of the really touristy sights also don't represent the capital city. They are mandatory to visit in my opinion, usually just to see what the hype is all about, but it is certain that tourists crowd the Blue Mosque and that they outnumber the locals at the Grand Bazaar. I like to get to know the locals when I travel and to do this I usually have to find the more outer districts of the city and lose myself in neighborhoods where English-speakers are harder to find.

Balkinology, a travel site, suggests taking a walk along the south shore of the Golden Horn from Galata Bridge. Checking out Fener and Balat will be helpful too in getting a more realistic and cultured impression of Istanbul. The city walls were built in the fifth century and it is possible to trace them along the outskirts of the city. I can't even imagine how long it took to build them and by how many men.
Another site I think is a must-see especially for art-lovers and architect admirers is the Church of Saviour in Chora which has frescoes in classic Byzantine style.Thinking about travelling again is exciting, especially to a location like Turkey which is really geographically close but can feel so exotic at the same time.

2010? travel travel travel

2009-12-31T03:38:00.000-08:00

Well, its the eve of the New Year and I think everyone is making their resolutions to put in ink and sign at the strike of midnight. So I've been thinking about mine. Even though Budapest is beautiful and historical, there is so much more to explore. Hungary is the best starting point to discover the Balkans and although I have been getting around a little bit, there is still so much more to see, agreed?

Some of what I have come up with, the less personal and travel-related resolutions include:
-find cheaper flights to the places I want to visit
-get out of the city more and breathe some fresh air
-set up a couchsurfing account because even though it is sometimes easy to find cheap hotel stays, there is nothing cooler than sleeping at local's houses and learning a thing or two about culture and lifestyle when travelling
-turkey turkey turkey! (and its not the bird that I've got on my mind)

New Years is the perfect time to think about the next year's travels and reflect on the trips I've taken this past year. It is pretty incredible thinking of all the possibilities that that Balkans offer. I'm not even quite sure how I got started on all of this but I am ready for a new year and more travel adventures, with fresh air and cheap flights. :)

Happy New Year!

Adventure trip to the South of Croatia

2009-11-04T03:21:00.000-08:00

I have to admit, this was not as much a 'fun' holiday as I thought it would be, but nevertheless we saw some really nice places, including the old town of Korcula, and the island of Korcula itself is beautiful.

We didn't plan it at all, just decided to go on a holiday on a Monday afternoon, and bought the train tickets to Zagreb (I was so naive that really believed, there IS a discount for people under 26 in all the countries - well, in Croatia, there wasn't).

Our train left from Budapest Keleti around 14:00 in the afternoon, and we arrived in Zagreb in the evening - short sightseeing, because we wanted to catch the train that went to Split at 23:00. So, we left the luggages in the lockers (quite cheap!) and had a nice walk, admired the trams that seemed even older than ours in Budapest...

The first mistake i made was not reserving a couchette ticket for the trip, but we thought there wont be any people on the train on the last week of September...We were almost right, except that in the last moment, a couple came into the compartment, and the lady was singing and talking to herself all night long :) :)
Maybe I'm getting older and fastidious, but the dirt of the curtains, the cold and our nice fellow travellers' lullaby did not make it one of my favourite trips.

We were sooo happy to see the Adriatic sea among the hills when we were approaching the town of Split - and so disappointed again, by the Balkanic conditions that still dominating the south of this country. They might have a far better highroad system than we do, but I don not envy the poverty and the desperate need of wealthy tourists of them. Finally we fought our way to the ferry's ticket office (at least a million people asked us whether we needed a cheap hotel room in Split) and sat down to have a coffee (3 hours until the next ferry left to Vela Luka, no direct ferries to Korcula...- so a bus ride along the island was waiting for us, but i was excited).

3 hours on the ferry, which we spent mainly sleeping, because of being exhausted, then arrived at Vela Luka (the other end of Korcula island) and searched for the bus we was due in 5 minutes to depart. We asked the girl at the newspaper stand where do the buses to Korcula city depart from - she said right here, just wait. Of course we did not find any signs of bus stop or anything similar, so were quite surprised to see the bus leaving from behind us, next to the ferry station....

We sat down, already yielding to the fact that another 3 hours of waiting is in the view, when the bus came back (!) and just passed by. Tried to run after it, waving and shouting to the driver - did not help, so we decided not to take a taxi but rather have a pizza at one of the restaurants. Also called the receptionist of our accommodation that we might be late, she was absolutely understanding and said that would be waiting for us (normally she only works until 18:00, and we were to arrive at 20:00 with the next bus. (IF we can catch the small boat that would bring us to Orebic, our real destination on the Peljasic Peninsula).

Finally in Korcula, from the bus we saw a bigger Jadrolinija cruise waiting in the port, so we ran there to find out it is the one we needed, but it wasn't... (I broke my personal record of 200 metres...:) 20 minutes later the boat arrived, the steersman got out and reassured us that we were at the right place, he'd be back in 20 minutes and then he remounts to Orebic - first really good news of the day!

When in Orebic, of course we took the wrong direction, so needed about half an hour to find the guest house (and it was getting dark, so i was being quite hysterical).
Both of us were so tired that after we were shown our room and got the keys, fell asleep almost immediately, and it was only in the morning when i realised how nice view we had to the sea from our little balcony.

The weather was rather cool and windy, with couple of hours sunshine, so we had the chance to swim - but about our stay there and the way home, I'll tell you next time!

Checklist before travelling

2009-09-07T03:46:00.000-07:00

I've just made a short checklist for myself, as I'm going on a couple of days trip to the neighbouring Croatia, and wanted to share it with you!

Some things you might need to do / take care of before leaving home

address of your embassy in Croatia
sunburn cream, medicine to treat nausea, stomach discomfort, diarrhea or fever, elastic bandage, and disinfectants, some painkillers
spare passport photos for unforeseen documents
water the flowers or the garden plants; lawnmower, and ask somebody to take care of your pets
leave a travel program for relatives/friends of your holiday
valid ID / passport
European Health Card or travel insurance
guides, maps and dictionaries
photocopies of documents and traveller’s check
youth hostel card / international student ID
your flight tickets to Croatia, confirmation of hotel reservation in Korcula, for instance
foreign currency
switch off all electrical equipment, perhaps defrost the fridge (especially if you are leaving for a long holiday)
check gas, water, electricity and turn off if needed
close the windows and doors
take out the trash
clothing for different occasions
shoes / shoe cleaning
sport equipment (balls, mattresses, etc.)
cosmetics / suntan cream
contact lenses liquid, spare glasses and glasses case
luggage tags / luggage key
list of addresses for postcards; some pens
photo equipment, film (if not digital)
chargers for mobiles
a book (in case it might rain)

Lower prices in Montenegro hotels

2009-08-31T03:44:00.000-07:00

I guess no one will be surprised to hear what I‘ve just read, that is, this season the vast majority of visitors in Montenegro were from foreign countries, and the last week of August in Herceg Novi has passed with a great number of tourists, enjoying the sunshine on the gorgeous Riviera.

Prices of accommodations are already 10% to 20% lower now, in the majority of hotels; and the rest of the hotels should be also lowering their prices this week, or in the second half of September.

Half board in a Herceg Novi hotel costs around EUR €24 (up to €180). The 10-15% discount will start from 1 September.

According to Zeljko Andric, Hotel Keeping Manager of the Institute Dr Simo Milosevic, they are expecting more visitors from Denmark, Holland and Sweden in the following period.

Time to pack our suitcases for an after-season holiday in Montenegro, isn’t it?

Montenegro

2009-08-18T03:16:00.000-07:00

Montenegro is easily available from Central Europe by car, train or bus, but there are several cheap airlines to Podgorica as well, which offer you flight tickets for quite reasonable prices.

As for accommodation, there is a huge variety of hotels, and in summertime, nice seaside camps are at your disposal. The Montenegrin seaside has plenty of gorgeous beaches, not to mention that temperatures are above 18°C at least for six months a year.

The mountainous parts of the country contain 35 bigger lakes (!) and 4 national parks, which are said to be the most attractive and ecologically best preserved nature reserves (Durmitor, Biogradska gora, Lake Skadar, and Lovcen). They want to establish two more (Orjen and Prokletije) in the near future.

Lake Plav is one of the most popular starting points for hikers - you can make some really good excursions from here, into the Prokletije Mountains on the Albanian border.

Gusinje, the last village before the border, is also famous for its mosque.
Lake Shkoder – once there, you should definitely make a boat excursion on this beautiful lake, located along the peninsula, covered by dense reeds. It’s a complete labyrinth of islands, and in many places there are water lilies - ideal living conditions for about 270 species of birds, which are very much endangered.

Rijeka Crnojevica also has a compelling landscape, and a breathtaking panorama unique to the whole Europe. Take a short walk along the river, and to the charming village of Rijeka Crnojevica, a small settlement that used to be a busy commercial centre in the Middle Ages. The first books in Cyrillic script were printed here, now it is a quiet fishing town.

For more information about tourism and programs in Montenegro, one can visit the official site of National Tourism Organization of Montenegro.

Transylvania

2009-08-10T02:46:00.000-07:00

Every Hungarian has to climb the Székelykő once in a lifetime – as the old saying says. Well, I am proud to tell you that despite of all my horror of high places, I managed to get up this beautiful mountain, and the view was amazing. Getting down was far more interesting, as there were heavy rains and floods the week before, the soil was wet and extremely slippery – you had to hold on every tiny branch of tree not to end up sloping down on your back.

On arrival, we were received with the utmost hospitability imaginable: although the people living here are not well-to-do, they do everything so that you can really feel at home (in our case it is especially true, since we are Hungarians, too). It felt really good, after the whole-day journey from the Austrian border. Of course we made several stops during the day, but 3 people sitting in the back of the car… not the most convenient way of travelling. There are several trains from Budapest to Romania, and there are many cheap flights to Brasov or Bucharest as well, from all major European airports. Our accommodation was in one of the smaller villages, Torockó - right at the feet of Székelykő, in a nice old house with green folding shutters.

One of the traditional spices they use is tarragon, which has a really characteristic taste, and the other thing I loved about their cuisine was aubergine crème – tried to prepare it at home myself, but never reached the taste of the original one. They say, when Hungary's greatest king Mathias Corvinus married Beatrice in 1476, the daughter of the King of Naples, she brought with her many secrets of the Italian cuisine and also ingredients, which were added to the Transylvanian cuisine. Just like in Italy, gourmet cheeses, delicious sausages, and great wines are on the Transylvanian menu. Their cuisine might not be that famous, but it is nevertheless one of the greatest in the world.

Vintgar Gorge and Lake Bohinj

2009-08-03T04:31:00.000-07:00

The following day the question came up: why not rent a bike and go to the nearby Vintgar Gorge? – only 3.5 kilometres from Bled, the route leads north, towards the village of Podhom, and all along the road there are clear signs for Vintgar. There are paths above the river Radovna, galleries and bridges constructed in the rock. The trail runs through the 1600 m long gorge and ends at the delightful Šum waterfall, the highest river fall in Slovenia. There were quite a few families wandering along the path, carrying small babies – I guess in this case it’s sensible to rent a car for your holiday, since car rental in Slovenia is not that costly and makes your life a lot easier. I had a smaller problem with my bike on the way back to Bled, the strings had fallen off, but fortunately there were some workers along the road, having the afternoon siesta, and they managed to fix it – when told them where are we from, even tried to communicate in German, with more or less success. Somehow I don’t seem to have luck with rented bicycles: last time in Germany, the breaks did not function, and to avoid crushing into the biker in front of me, almost crashed into a tree, but finally only flew a couple of meters, and had minor injuries. Since then I don’t really feel like cycling on mountainous grounds. :)

Lake Bohinj is another famous sight in Slovenia that couldn’t be left out. The bus we took from Bled was right at the lake in 40 minutes, and the water was crystal clear… I couldn’t resist having a swim, though it was freezing cold. All along the lakeside, there were many people, due to the popularity of the place and the time we chose (mid August) but still it was amazing.

Bled

2009-07-30T01:32:00.000-07:00

From Koper to the north of the country – can’t tell you what a great experience it was the road along river Soča, which is by the way one of the best and most beautiful rafting resorts in Europe, with a wonderful and inimitable shade of green. You can get to Bohinjska Bistrica in about 4 hours by train, but the view is really worth it. Since we had a two hours gap at Sežana, near the Italian border, decided to try the local Italian Pizzeria – it was a nice and comfortable restaurant, the food was delicious, the waiter very polite and friendly.

At arrival in Bohinjska Bistrica: a sudden shower, therefore no people on the street to help us find the nearest bus stop. Eventually we managed to get there, and were waiting for the bus to Bled, when a minibus stopped; a young and funny guy jumped out of it, with a grinning on his face, and asked whether we are the guests going to Bled… Although I felt like saying ‘yes’, we explained him that unfortunately we weren’t not the ones he was looking for. :) Still, he offered a ride to the lake, for which we were really grateful.

The lake was as beautiful as seen on pictures before, and after the rain had stopped, went up the little castle on the hill, walked around and enjoyed the fantastic view. I booked a room in a guest house, because a hotel would have been far too expensive, and my partner wasn’t keen on camping (actually carrying a tent throughout whole Slovenia didn’t seem a good idea to me either). The owner of the guesthouse came upstairs in the morning with our breakfast – a lovely surprise especially that our window looked right onto the lake , and couldn’t have had better boarding in a 3 star hotel in Bled either. After having had the amazing breakfast, a short shopping tour, to get some food for the rest of the day (since then they have brought in the euro and prices got bit higher, but at that time they were almost the same as in Hungary), then hired a small boat to go to the island which is in the very centre of the lake. I could show off with my wonderful paddling technique again – my friends say I do it quite well, despite of being a girl…

Koper, Piran, Portorož

2009-07-23T00:36:00.001-07:00

The way to Koper was extremely beautiful – we took a train around 16 in the afternoon and enjoyed the air-conditioned, clean service and the fact that there weren’t many tourists around. The journey takes only 2 hours, but the view from the viaduct when approaching the seaside is really fascinating. I booked a room in a students’ hostel prior to the journey, and also asked for the daily menu option… what we had for dinner was something that resembles the South-German ‘national dish’ with brown sauce, but was quite good though and to tell the truth we were hungry by then.

Right after we arrived, went for a walk in the port, to make friends with the local cats and see the sunset on the water – and the only thing that stopped me from jumping into the water was the sign right next to the boats: no swimming. But at least had a nice walk on the narrow streets of Koper, and a glimpse of the Mediterranean atmosphere. I think that was the first time I realized it must have been a mistake that I wasn’t born somewhere near the sea – and a strange feeling that somehow felt at home. Ever since, this is the only place where I can feel perfectly liberated, and always long for it, if I’m not somewhere near the shore.

Next morning: sightseeing in Piran, a short ride by bus and the first success in using my small Slovenian knowledge asked for the prices of shawls – and they understood!! Of course I couldn’t wait giving myself up to the waves, so in less than 5 minutes I was already in the water. After lunch, a huge ice cup, and a walk up to the castle walls, so that we could make some pictures of the panoramic view (not of those, couple of less bashful vacationers who were swimming about naked).

Actually I’m thinking of visiting Piran this year as well, and hope I can report about it soon to you.

Ljubljana

2009-07-17T07:44:00.001-07:00

There are many different accommodations in Ljubljana, but the most famous and the most exciting one (at least for me definitely) is Hostel Celica, which is a prison in the centre of the city, renovated in a unique style and turned into a hostel. There are 20 artistically decorated former cells with bars on the doors and on the windows, and Wi-Fi connection :) It is close to all the major sights, like the castle of Ljlubljana or the Triple Bridge.

There is a nice café on the ground floor of the hostel, with comfortable sitting banks and huge pillows, and also a self service breakfast bar, open from 7:30 a.m. to 11:00 a.m. every day. The opening hours of the ‘drink bar’ are from 7:30 a.m. to midnight, but Tuesdays and Fridays to 1:00 a.m. They also run a restaurant, where lunch is served from 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. (weekdays only), it costs about €4. Check out the homepage of the hotel for all the details you might need, and also some pictures of the cells.

The weather was lovely, so we didn’t spend much time sitting in the cell, in the morning we went for a walk to discover the city:

First we walked by the Franciscan church, which cannot be taken for anything else, thanks to its special shade of rose. It was built by the Augustinians, today it’s one of the symbols of the city. You can have a great view of the Triple Bridge, the Preṧeren Square from here, and see the locals strolling by, listen to them (I found Slovenian a beautiful language, and decided to learn it many times but never had time) and get a glimpse of the city’s life.

The Preṧeren Square, with the statue of Dr. France Preseren is the main square of Ljubljana, dedicated to the greatest Slovenian poet. His statue stands in the middle of the square and is surrounded by many secession buildings from the 20th century.

Then we crossed the Triple Bridge, which is probably the most unusual and the most frequently crossed bridge in Ljubljana. It connects the main square and a newer part of town with the Old Town and the Market, what makes it an area where the most people pass by. It was Joze Plecnik who added the side pedestrian bridges to the existing main one in 1931, so the bridge got its final image.

After a 10-15 minutes’ walk, we got to the castle of Ljubljana, and walked up the hill to see the view of the city, and found ourselves among the spectators of a modern outdoor theatre performance. For the entrance you don’t have to pay anything, and the art exhibitions, which take place in different parts of the castle, are usually for free as well. By the entrance there is the Galerija Rustika, where you can buy or just admire high quality products of Slovene traditional handcraft. On the other side of the castle there’s a chapel and a viewing tower together with the Virtual Museum, where you can see a 3-dimension documentary about the history of the castle and the city in Slovene, English, German and Italian.(3,3 € for adults and 2,04 € for seniors, students and children).

It can be worth to enquire about what’s happening at the castle in the evenings, you might find a nice concert, a theatre show or an open air cinema of non-commercial movies in the summer time.

We didn’t really feel like taking part in a guided tour, but next time I go there, certainly will. During the peak season (= from June to mid September) there are guided tours at 10 am and 4 pm every day. At any other time of day, tours are possible, but with previous notice only. They are available in English, German, French, Italian, and Spanish. One tour lasts approx. an hour and 15 minutes. According to the Ljubljana info page,a young and energetic chap will take you around, giving you historical background, explaining what the castle looked like in the first stages of its construction and what purpose it served. You can have a look at the medieval jails, the old gothic chapel and a dragon, hear stories and legends about Slovenian Robin Hood; and find out why has a dragon become the symbol of the city. You’ll be able to see beautifully renovated halls and spend 20 minutes in the 3-dimension world of the Virtual Museum (entry fees: adults 4.59 €, seniors, students, children 3.3 €).

Next day we decided to visit the famous Postojna cave and took the morning train. There are many trains running to this direction, and the caves are not far from the railway stations, either. I loved the trail that carries the visitors along in the first 10 minutes of the tour, but was terribly afraid that I will bump my head into the ‘ceiling’, cause the dripstones seemed to be so close to us. Felt really revealed when finally could get out of the trail and walk on my own. Then the visitors were divided into groups, depending on the language they chose – and the tourist guides, respectively. When the tour had ended, we were talking about the trail, that it must be driven by electronic power, when one of the ladies standing there, actually by the info stand, told us that indeed, they were using electric batteries.

The rest of the day we spent with relaxing, having a beer at one the pivovarna-s, and planning the next day schedule. Since neither of us could drive the car, the only option we had if we wanted to see the famous Predjamski Grad, was to walk the 12 km distance from the caves to the castle of Erasmus, 15th century knight. There is also a legend about the history of the castle, which you will be told by the guide.

Next time I will tell you about our way to Koper, on the seashore, and the really great time I had there!

Slovenia

2009-07-14T03:43:00.000-07:00

Although Slovenia is a country with definitely small place (20.000 km2), it is extremely rich in natural merits: mountains, forests (more than 10.000 km2 of surface), beautiful and transparent mountain lakes, and a coast at the Adriatic Sea.
The climate is continental in the central parts, alpine in the North-West and Sub-Mediterranean along the coast.

Some facts and numbers about the country:

Full name: Republika Slovenija

State system: Democratic parliamentary republic since 1991; member of the EU since 1 May 2004

Capital: Ljubljana, with 258,873 inhabitants

Official Language: Slovene, in some areas also Italian and Hungarian

Anthem: the 7th stanza of France Prešeren’s poem, the Zdravljica (Toast); set to music by Stanko Premrl

Currency: Euro

Country code: +386

Internet TLD: .si

Population: around 2.000.000

Nationalities: Slovenian 1.631.363; Hungarian 6.243; Italian 2.258; other 324.172 (2002 data)

Main cities: Ljubljana, Maribor, Celje, Kranj, Velenje, Koper

If you visit Slovenia by plane, you will arrive at the International Airport (LJU), which is about 16 miles from the city centre, but there are many car renting companies, and you can also take a shuttle bus to downtown. To begin the journey in Ljubljana is a good choice, since it’s located in the heart of the country, and you can easily get everywhere, let it be the Julian Alps in the west or Maribor in the northeast. I found a quite good webpage to compare the prices of different cheap flight companies to Ljubljana.

When I visited Slovenia a couple of years ago, had a rail pass which was valid for a month, and could use it on all the intercity trains.Now Interrail is one of the options that offer you this kind of ticket, for the following prices:

The prices of single country passes, which can be used on 3, 4, 6 or 8 different days within a month.

Single country passes, valid for 1 month	2nd class Under the age of 26	2nd class Adult	1st class Adult
3 days	32 €	49 €	66 €
4 days	45 €	69 €	93 €
6 days	64 €	99 €	134 €
8 days	77 €	119 €	161 €

(The same prices apply for Bulgaria, The Czech Republic, Macedonia, Slovakia, Serbia and Turkey anyway.)

There is also a Eurail Hungary - Slovenia / Croatia Pass that allows you to travel in Hungary, Slovenia and Croatia. This Pass is available for 5, 6, 8 or 10 travel days within a 2-month period. The travel days do not have to be used consecutively, just like in case of the Interrail passes, but the difference is that this one is for non-European citizens only.

The Balkan Peninsula

2009-07-13T04:42:00.000-07:00

It’s not an easy question to confine which countries do and which don’t really belong to the peninsula. According to some definitions, parts of Slovenia, Croatia and Serbia do not belong here, which means, the borderline would be the Balkan Mountains in the east and the Dinaric Mountains in the west. From a cultural-political point of view, the expression ‘Balkans’ was considered to be pejorative, therefore in many places you’ll find South-eastern Europe instead, sometimes including Romania, Moldova and parts of Turkey as well.

In this blog I’m going to concentrate on the countries Slovenia, Croatia, Serbia, Bosnia-Herzegovina, Montenegro, Albania, Kosovo, Macedonia, Greece, Bulgaria, Romania, Moldova and the part of Turkey that is in Europe.

Do you feel like going for a virtual walk on the Albanian seaside, in the Croatian national parks or in one of the capital cities? Then read further – you’ll find interesting descriptions about a country each week, the very first one being Slovenia, the jewel casket of the region.

The Balkans – hidden paradise in the East of Europe

2009-07-13T03:42:00.000-07:00

Since more and more tourists come to my country each year to visit central Europe and then the Balkan states, thought it might be a great idea to open a blog for those who are interested in the south-eastern parts of Europe, or just planning to come here one day.

I’ll post some country descriptions, advice and travel tips how to make the journey more economical. :)

Iza